Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum

yeah possibly start a new trhread with all the gory details in the design section.

awesome!

the key for your space isolation is to ensure the new framing is decoupled from the walls and using isolation sway bracing to stabilise tall walls whe nyo ucannot use decoupled anchors in the floor AND ceiling (as well as back to back walls). it's ok if the insulation touches across the space, but n...

in a live room - less important than simply providing sufficient HF scattering. in a critical listening space - you'd want to look at room symmetry, scattering of frequencies related to your sweet spot, etc. as for the type of pattern - mainly any could work but in most of my designs, i would put mo...

usually you would place the "blocking" or "noggins" between the studs to support it, i think having it behind the insulation will be less effective. as a note, sofy or semi-rigid insulation contacting between the frames is less of an issue than simply having it sag and leaving op...

it would be interesting to compare the room response to your previous measurements - esp if you did empty room ones. see what the additional air volume does. in theory you should see a some change in your axial modes length and width, perhaps slight vertical.

welcome! even the shell and foundation can be critical to your studio esp if you intend to have high isolation between rooms (presuming you have rooms )

assuming the walls are not load bearing, the metal framing should suffice. you can also consider adding a layer of OSB or plywood before adding the drywall. this will stiffen the assembly provide fastening options for the drywall and finishes. for the pipes - you should build a soffit around them an...

no, you DO NOT want to connect the walls - otherwise you could have just skipped the dual wall approach... you do need to brace up on either side of the door - on each wall - NOT connecting the walls. you also need to add some blocking on the walls to A) strength them, B) support the insulation

very cool!

you can put a layer of slats or slot-cut panels to restore some of the HF energy.

the older flat stuff are nailers for the lights so should be no issue to remove. not sure what the diagonal board is unless there is some room feature or a some stabilization function - so maybe leave it alone. the wiring might be easy enough to use the existing wire to snake some new wiring once th...

add some more king studs on either side of the door jam jack stud to reinforce it. which seems to be the plan... on the threshold - consider replacing them with proper drop seals and match thresholds - zero international & pemko are good ones. e.g. https://www.pemko.com/en/products/door-bottom-a...

no photos. welcome to the forum.

definitely build and mount if going moduler. and i think with enough units across the width, you'll have almost the same amount of air (albeit discontinous) but from a trapping perspective, we could consider slats to tune them to correspond to the modes.