Translate This Pageyou can totally hear the reverb from the stairwell
SoWhat wrote:Source of the postAh, takes me back to the days of the FIRST portastudio (belonged to a friend; I couldn't afford one). We had to be VERY creative with effects: we used to record reverb in the stairwell, a metal office trashcan, or the bathroom (if the loo was good enough for the pros, we figured it would be good enough for us)!
So there you are Trevor. If you're inclined towards this sort of thing maybe you could figure out a way to get a mic into that chimney stack
endorka wrote:Source of the post Reason being the asymmetry at the rear of the room caused by the door being right in the corner. The panels will allow you to try out various schemes. I've personally observed sonic irregularities from asymmetrical bass trapping, so my first effort would be to straddle panels across the corner above the door, then mirror the same arrangement on the other side, and see if it is good enough.
Since you have an abundance, the panels would be ideal. They'll also allow some trial and error testing.
Pretty much. There are various approaches to filling superchunks with insulation. For superchunks of these size I'd be inclined to face them with the rigid rockwool and fill behind with far less dense (and cheaper) fluffy insulation.
) and delivery fee from a semi-local company. Sound about right?For the door, do you have Rod Gervais' book? He has excellent plans for augmenting a standard solid door. Stuart has written on this site on the subject too.
You're spot on about not worrying about having too many panels by the way. I have two slightly smaller rooms than yours, and I initially built something like 40 panels. Some now employed in the second room, on the stairwell landing, as gobos, you name it. I'm still building them as we speak
endorka wrote:Source of the post So there you are Trevor. If you're inclined towards this sort of thing maybe you could figure out a way to get a mic into that chimney stack
SoWhat wrote:Source of the post Don't forget to take it out in late-December...
It's been several weeks of searching and so far...nothing has panned out. Looking for something at least 54" wide so that every yard can cover a single panel without too much waste. Somewhere in the $3-5 per yard range would be ideal!!
shybird wrote:Source of the postCould I potentially just staple some of this 2mil black plastic to the inner frame before adding the burlap so that it has a consistent background across the width of the panel?
Gotcha. However, I'm already in the fluffy category I believe. I'm using a 2.5lbs/ft3 Rockwool AFB. It's definitely not rigid and I can get a bundle of 8 - 24"x48"x3" panels for about $62 after tax (in Nashville it's 9.25%
I just wanted to emphasis this paragraph. No one expects their studio to go up in flames but if it does the facing of your acoustic treatment will cover significant enough area that having it resist fire to some extent is really rather essential.endorka wrote:Source of the postAlso, if you are using a non fire rated fabric to cover these, it's a very good idea to spray them with a fire retardant spray of some kind.
Starlight wrote:Source of the post Rather than black plastic, how about using polyester batting/wadding/filling (it seems to go by a few names) behind the burlap or whatever textile you choose to use?
endorka wrote:Source of the post That Rockwool is slightly less dense than the "standard" fibreglass OC 703 often recommended, and Rockwool describe it as "semi-rigid" so not quite in the fluffy category. Mineral fibre also tends to behave "slightly less dense" than equivalent density of fibreglass, which works in your favour. I think it will work well in traps, but for corner straddlers that wide with air gap you might consider going up to 8" depth.
endorka wrote:Source of the post If you plan to completely fill the superchunks, I've read of people using panels like these, cut intro triangles and stacked on top of each other. But it would get unnecessarily expensive. A quick calculation shows you'd need nearly 3 bundles of 8 for each superchunk. For filled superchunks of the size of your planned ones, apparently you'll get better results from going even less dense. Rolls of the less dense insulation used for loft spaces and filling partition walls is often used for this. I have several waiting in my garage to be deployed for this purpose
I've used self coloured calico to cover panels and it works well. It doesn't cost much and is pretty hard wearing. Still somewhat translucent though, and the wood frame shows through differently than the insulation, which looks terrible. My solution was to cover the wood frames with silver gaffer tape, and they are pretty much invisible. Looks well good. It's practical for skeleton type frames or 2" deep panels, but would take ages for deeper full frame ones. You could probably get a similar effect from painting the frames to a colour similar to the insulation, which would be much quicker.
Starlight wrote:Source of the post I just wanted to emphasis this paragraph. No one expects their studio to go up in flames but if it does the facing of your acoustic treatment will cover significant enough area that having it resist fire to some extent is really rather essential.
I bought a big thing of it already to use in a spray bottle. shybird wrote:Ok great! Thanks for the advice. I will look into the pink fluffy stuff locally and compare prices. Any particular brand or type you recommend for the superchunks?
endorka wrote:Source of the post I think there is significant leeway in what will work, as long as you are in the ballpark. The insulation I've bought is "Knauf Insulation Earthwool Combi-Cut Loft Floor Insulation Roll 44 170mm (4.90m²/Roll)". They cost the equivalent of about $15 each, and you'd need a bit less than 3 rolls to fill one of your superchunks.
shybird wrote:I think the main question I need answered right now (so I can confirm my fabric order) is whether or not the black plastic I linked to (see below) will be ok (acoustically) to use on the facing of the panels beneath the burlap?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HUSKY-10-ft-x-100-ft-Black-2-mil-Plastic-Sheeting-RS210-100B/202184042?MERCH=REC-_-Pip_Alternatives_Non_HDhome-_-202184122-_-202184042-_-N
endorka wrote:Source of the post 1) Unpredictability. It may be beneficial acoustically. Or it may not. Large areas of broadband absorption can absorb too much high frequencies relative to the lows, and plastic covering will restore those. But would it be the correct amount? If it restored too many highs, it could be too late to fix as the bass traps are already built. My preference would be to address this afterwards with wooden slats or what have you on top of the fabric face of the superchunks. These can be tuned as required.
endorka wrote:Source of the post 2) The aforementioned fire hazard. I may be being paranoid, but the thought of all that hot melty stuff dripping from on high gives me the heebie jeebies.
There are: polyester batting has a low GFR and will not reflect any high frequencies.shybird wrote:Source of the postIs there an acoustical reason behind using this material instead of the thin black plastic?
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