Multi-purpose Music/Home Theater/Recording Studio

[goodwater]

Thank you Glenn.

Rereading my previous post, there is a mistake: for the first layer of the ceiling, I will use 1 5/8 inch screws (the same as for the walls) so that the screws do not protrude beyond the slats.

Some additional questions:

1. a) In my design above, I seal the corners after installing all the sheets – ceiling and walls (arrow 1). However, in your diagram below, I understand that the ceiling sheets are sealed before the wall sheets are installed (arrow 2), so double sealing. Would it be beneficial for me to do this?
   
   b) Is the backer rod really essential or only if the gap is too large (e.g. more than ¼ inch)?
   
   c) I seem to have read somewhere that the sealant should only touch 2 surfaces but on your diagram it also touches the backer rod, so 3 surfaces... Can you clarify this for me?
   
   

   

   
   
2. Context: In my first post I wrote : " I am not sure if I will need an air conditioner (mini-split system) but I intend to do what is necessary in anticipation (circuit breaker, electrical cable, hole in the wall to the outside, sealant, etc ...) ”. I realized that the humidity level outside is higher from year to year (not all summer but at times) and despite the fact that the exterior wall is well insulated and sealed, the humidity manages to enter. And since it is well insulated, it remains inside for a long time. And when the ERV is working, it could be worse because it will pump humid air from outside.
   
   The ERV is not a dehumidifier, but a mini-split system can act as a dehumidifier. This led me to seriously consider installing one during the studio construction. This also made me realize how big the hole in my two layers of drywall behind the indoor unit is: 2.25 inches. Additionally, it requires another hole for the electrical wire that powers the system. Even though it will be well sealed, I'm afraid it will affect the isolation.
   
   Initially I was thinking of putting the indoor unit on the north wall (Option 1) but another idea emerged: putting it on the wall that separates the gym (Option 2). This way the holes to the outside will be between the two walls.
   
   Question: Is option #1 really likely to reduce isolation and therefore I should opt for option #2?
   
   

   

Thanks again!
Stef

[gullfo]

the caulk needs 3 points of contact to ensure it stays sealed. the multiple layers of it also ensure when things shift, there is still a high probability that something will continue seal those gaps...

i would prefer option 2 and if possible place the unit above the door for symmetrical noise and flow.

the ERV / HRV are not humifiers / dehumidifiers, they do possess energy conservation and in some cases, balace of humidity. more importantly - FRESH AIR - not only required to stay alive, but in most cases required by law... EVR / HRV units will provide the air you need to live. plus filtering it, plus energy savings.

you will need to install duct work to faciliate it. i recommend wll-ceiling soffits to distribute the ducts. the ERV unit should sit outside your studio and be installed on isolation suspension (hangers) - see kinetics noise https://kineticsnoise.com/rh/neoprene-isolation-hanger for an example.

[goodwater]

Very good and very logical. So I'll seal it to death and with my new DeWalt Caulking Gun it will even be very pleasant!

Regarding the ERV, it's in the gym and I used the chains that came with the machine. They're supposed to be anti-vibration chains... Do you think that's enough or should I decouple the screw from the slat? (Maybe by screwing a piece of thick rubber into the slat and then screwing the chain into the rubber?)

[gullfo]

the chains are still a direct contact. you need a decoupler between. i've seen homebrew decouplers like plumbing washers (the thick soft rubber rings) which break the chain direct connection - should use several to distribute the weight and ensure the ring isn't stretched too much otherwise it defeats the purpose. best bet though - get proper ones.