Multi-purpose Music/Home Theater/Recording Studio

#31

Thank you Glenn.

Rereading my previous post, there is a mistake: for the first layer of the ceiling, I will use 1 5/8 inch screws (the same as for the walls) so that the screws do not protrude beyond the slats.

Some additional questions:

a) In my design above, I seal the corners after installing all the sheets – ceiling and walls (arrow 1). However, in your diagram below, I understand that the ceiling sheets are sealed before the wall sheets are installed (arrow 2), so double sealing. Would it be beneficial for me to do this?

b) Is the backer rod really essential or only if the gap is too large (e.g. more than ¼ inch)?

c) I seem to have read somewhere that the sealant should only touch 2 surfaces but on your diagram it also touches the backer rod, so 3 surfaces... Can you clarify this for me?
Context: In my first post I wrote : " I am not sure if I will need an air conditioner (mini-split system) but I intend to do what is necessary in anticipation (circuit breaker, electrical cable, hole in the wall to the outside, sealant, etc ...) ”. I realized that the humidity level outside is higher from year to year (not all summer but at times) and despite the fact that the exterior wall is well insulated and sealed, the humidity manages to enter. And since it is well insulated, it remains inside for a long time. And when the ERV is working, it could be worse because it will pump humid air from outside.

The ERV is not a dehumidifier, but a mini-split system can act as a dehumidifier. This led me to seriously consider installing one during the studio construction. This also made me realize how big the hole in my two layers of drywall behind the indoor unit is: 2.25 inches. Additionally, it requires another hole for the electrical wire that powers the system. Even though it will be well sealed, I'm afraid it will affect the isolation.

Initially I was thinking of putting the indoor unit on the north wall (Option 1) but another idea emerged: putting it on the wall that separates the gym (Option 2). This way the holes to the outside will be between the two walls.

Question: Is option #1 really likely to reduce isolation and therefore I should opt for option #2?

Thanks again!
Stef

#32

the caulk needs 3 points of contact to ensure it stays sealed. the multiple layers of it also ensure when things shift, there is still a high probability that something will continue seal those gaps...

i would prefer option 2 and if possible place the unit above the door for symmetrical noise and flow.

the ERV / HRV are not humifiers / dehumidifiers, they do possess energy conservation and in some cases, balace of humidity. more importantly - FRESH AIR - not only required to stay alive, but in most cases required by law... EVR / HRV units will provide the air you need to live. plus filtering it, plus energy savings.

you will need to install duct work to faciliate it. i recommend wll-ceiling soffits to distribute the ducts. the ERV unit should sit outside your studio and be installed on isolation suspension (hangers) - see kinetics noise https://kineticsnoise.com/rh/neoprene-isolation-hanger for an example.

#33

Very good and very logical. So I'll seal it to death and with my new DeWalt Caulking Gun it will even be very pleasant!

Regarding the ERV, it's in the gym and I used the chains that came with the machine. They're supposed to be anti-vibration chains... Do you think that's enough or should I decouple the screw from the slat? (Maybe by screwing a piece of thick rubber into the slat and then screwing the chain into the rubber?)

#34

the chains are still a direct contact. you need a decoupler between. i've seen homebrew decouplers like plumbing washers (the thick soft rubber rings) which break the chain direct connection - should use several to distribute the weight and ensure the ring isn't stretched too much otherwise it defeats the purpose. best bet though - get proper ones.

#35

gullfo wrote:Source of the post i would prefer option 2 and if possible place the unit above the door for symmetrical noise and flow.

My original idea was to use the top of the doors for storage, but it's not a very large storage space. So to place the unit above the door, I have to build a 2x4 (maybe 2x3) frame up to the ceiling, closed with drywall.

My question is about the drywall. Do I put the 2 layers of drywall on the second wall as planned (the wall behind the new frame) and cover the new frame with a 1/2 layer of drywall or do I put the 2 layers on the new frame and nothing behind it?

Do I have to put wool inside?

What would be the best way to do this?
The frame dimensions are 16x32x80 inches.

Stef

#36

presuming the AC unit is going into that frame - you'd want the wall behind it to be the same mass as the rest of the room. the box itself can be light weight as it's mainly a "cover" around the unit. all the wiring, plumbing etc is hidden.

#37

The indoor unit will actually be mounted on the front of the box wall. The wiring and plumbing will enter the box from the back of the unit, run between the two walls separating the gym, and down to the hole in the exterior wall to connect to the outdoor unit.

The outdoor unit will be mounted on brackets (similar to the ones in this photo) which will be mounted on the concrete foundation.

But I'm hesitating between brackets or a support on concrete tiles.

#38

mounting on brackets attached to your build simply adds vibrations to your building... so i'd go with a detached concrete slab unless you're prone to flooding... remember in your planning to determine your drainage lines as well - sloped minimum 1/4:12 to ensure things drain, and also ensure the end of the drain jas a screen to keep bugs out :-)

#39

Thanks Glenn. As you could read in my construction thread, I followed your advice and didn't place the outdoor unit directly on the foundation. It didn't cost any extra!

I continue with electrical and lighting design.

My electrical panel has two phases. It's connected to the main electrical panel of the house, which has a ground connection. So far, I've connected all the circuits (breakers) to the same phase (lighting and outlets in the gym, the ERV unit, water heater, etc.). There are only two exceptions: the 50A circuit breaker for the radiant floor heating system and the dual 15A circuit breaker for the mini-split air conditioner. For the studio, the lighting and two accessory outlets will also be on this phase. All other outlets in the studio will be on the other phase and will be used for the computer, monitors, speakers, synthesizers, console, rack-mounted equipment, amplifiers, stereo system, turntable, etc.

My wife and I decided to renovate our bathroom. We hired a company to handle the design and construction work, and the designer they assigned to us is excellent. So, I decided to hire him to help me with the interior design of my studio, including the lighting. Instead of extending the ceiling panels to the walls of the storage area and the front wall (as in my original plan), he suggests extending them to the back wall and also installing recessed lighting there.

Here is the plan and the details:

red circle = recessed LED light on 1 dimmer (including 4 lights in the cloud on a second dimmer)
black = three 12 feet tracks with LED heads on a third dimmer
red rectangle = Ceiling light in the storage, also LED
orange squares = Accessory outlets (not on the studio phase, except for the one in the workshop area)
blue squares = studio outlets (1x 15A for the 2 outlets on the south wall, 1x 15A for the 2 outlets on the north wall, 2x 20A for the 4 outlets on the wall behind the control room area)
green squares = light switch or dimmer

Here's an overview of what it should look like (on this version the tracks are not positioned exactly as I described and the TV isn't at the right height):

: New Design2.JPG (46.28 KiB) Viewed 565 times

: New Design2.JPG (46.28 KiB) Viewed 565 times

QUESTIONS:

Does my design make sense? Is anything missing?
As you can see, there's no projector or large screen. Instead, for roughly the same price, I could get an 85-inch TV. This would give me more flexibility for the design/installation of the cloud, and I could stream content directly from my phone. Do you see any disadvantages to using a TV instead of a projector, or any advantages to using a projector?

I will discuss CAT5 cabling for internet and Audio cabling in another post.

Stef

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#40

in the new design, for all intents and purposes the "front soffit" is effectively integrated into the front wall (a good thing and i do it all the time unless i need something deeper to accomodate larger ducts or interior ac units). and having the rear wall soffit - also good. as a generaly "rule" i start out my acoustics plans with the soffit around the entire perimeter of the rooms. then i can make decisions on the hvac, cabling, etc before i start considering all the other constructs like front walls, side wall treatments, back etc. plus it defines the remaining ceiling space for the clouds and diffusers.

i'm a big fan of big TVs. i have a 75in TV in my living room. if you're more than 8-9' away (2-1/2m - 3m) it forms a nice image. close up though, you can get fatigued if your vision-edge angles exceed something like 36° (similar to the basics in a home theater but since you're working on smaller details (typically) you would want it tighter). so for most studios i keep the "work" monitor < 48in and the "hype" monitors (if there is room or you're in a large live room) < 90in.

#41

gullfo wrote:Source of the post 'm a big fan of big TVs. i have a 75in TV in my living room.

Since the TV will also be used as a computer monitor, should I plug it into an outlet that is connected to the "Studio" phase in the panel?

Soundman2020 - Studio Design Forum